Green to the Last Bite...of Artichoke. Recipe: Homemade Lemon Pesto Mayonnaise

Becki Walker Tuesday, May 19, 2009 07:56 PM
TAGS: FOOD, green to the last bite, local/organic food, recipes

We’ve come a long way as a society since the 16th century. Women (in America, at least) are now able to drive cars, own property, vote… and eat artichokes.

This last may seem like an odd inclusion on the list, but as an avid artichoke fan, I shudder to think that I may not have been able to enjoy the oddly-shaped thistle. Artichokes were considered aphrodisiacs for a long while, and only eaten by men (Henry the Eighth was famous for his love of them). 

Thankfully, Catherine de Medici changed all that when she married Henry II, King of France. When she moved to France from Italy, she brought along her servants, her trousseau, and her passion for artichokes, causing a bit of a scandal. Luckily, we can all hop on over to any supermarket and find artichokes most of the year round. Nearly 100% of the artichokes consumed in America are produced in California (especially the northern part of the state), which makes them a relatively low contributor to your carbon footprint.  

Illustration courtesy Chuck Groenink

The history of the artichoke is as curious as the mythical powers it possesses. The globe artichoke’s Latin name is Cynara scolymus – part of the sunflower family, Asteraceae. However, the artichoke is very similar to the Cardoon – Cyanara cardunculus – which is another thistle-like plant having edible leaves and stalks. Some botanists believe the artichoke is a domesticated version of the cardoon, some believe it’s vice-versa, and some don’t believe the two plants are even in the same botanical family.

It can be hard to distinguish the two – as an avid gardener, I myself couldn’t see much difference, except that the fruit of the cardoon is smaller than the fruit of the artichoke. Of course, the vegetable isn’t a fruit at all – the part of the artichoke we eat is actually the bud of a flower that hasn’t opened yet.

If you decide to grow artichokes on your own, consider allowing one or two of the flowers to open, just for fun – you may be surprised at the spiky purple petals that protrude from the flower.

These armored buds can be difficult to break into and eat, though. Once you’ve opened an artichoke, you’ll receive a nicely packaged dose of fiber, vitamin A, potassium, iron, and magnesium. Artichokes also contain cynarin and silvmarin, both of which are believed to promote healthy liver function. The cynarin is a double-edged sword, however. The potent antioxidant leaves a lingering sweetness on the tongue, and pretty much ruins any wine you might be drinking with dinner. One Italian created cynar, an aperitif made from artichokes, thinking it would be delicious with dinner. This experiment ran awry, as did a Pennsylvanian attempt to use artichoke fiber to make paper.

So how does one attack an artichoke? First, buy a nice green one that feels hefty for its size and possesses a minimum of discoloration. Go organic if you can – since you’re eating the part of the plant that’s exposed to the outdoors, you don’t want lots of particles of fertilizer and pesticide mixing in with your meal. Then take a pair of scissors and snip the sharp tips off of the leaves.  Boil with water for about 30-40 minutes, with a tablespoon of lemon juice.  

Then simply pull off each leaf, dip it in a sauce of choice (I’ve included a mayonnaise recipe below), and scrape it between your teeth to get the “meat” off. Once you’ve eaten all of the leaves, you’re nearly to the heart of the artichoke. Pull of the leaves surrounding the thin cone at the core of the artichoke, and find the “choke,” which is spiky and inedible. Once the choke’s gone, you’ve reached the heart of the thistle. Enjoy this tender piece, and check back next week for more food adventures.

Homemade Lemon Pesto Mayonnaise
 
Note to readers:  I have long hated mayonnaise. Really, really hated it. Then I found out you could make it at home, and it was delicious. Give it a chance.

1 egg yolk
1 ½ tsp lemon juice
1 tsp white vinegar
½ tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp salt
¾ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tsp garlic (or one roasted clove)
3 tbsp fresh basil, minced

Mix egg, 1 ½ tsp lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and salt. Whisk together.

Now get a friend and have that person whisk the mixture constantly as you add ¼ cup of the oil a few drops at a time. Take a little break (possibly switch whisk-ers!), and then add the rest of the oil in a very slow stream – this will take up to 10 minutes of whisking, so be patient. Then add 1 tbsp lemon juice, the garlic, and the basil, mix together, and use for artichoke dipping sauce.

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