Honest Eats

Honest Eats. Recipe: Mahogany Fried Rice with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Pan Seared Sea Scallops

Eric Robertson Monday, December 1, 2008 07:09 PM
TAGS: FOOD, local/organic food, recipes

Anytime I see Chanterelle mushrooms piled high into delicate heaps at the market, I immediately change the menu plan. Chanterelles posses a woody essence with apricot tones not unlike a fine glass of Chardonnay. These mushrooms play well with all sorts of preparations from slow braising in jus to sautéing in butter or simply steaming on their own. For this installment of Honest Eats, we’ll bring some Chinese flavor to Chanterelles and let their autumnal aromas come through uncompromised and make for an amazing dish.

As we come to end of the peak harvest season for Chanterelles, I finally got to go foraging for first time. Mushroom hunting is a lot like a cold and wet Easter egg hunt, where there’s an overwhelming excitement every time you discover one. Only, in this analogy a majority of the eggs are poisonous.  So if you’re like me and had never been, it’s strongly advisable to go with a seasoned forager. These mushrooms are particular about where they grow and have venomous look-alikes that are tricky to identify with a guide book alone.

Picking for personal use, say enough to make dinner for friends, does not require a permit and hotspots this time of year are scattered about the national forests. The best locations, however, are guarded with hidden treasure-like secrecy, so I’m afraid I have no directions to offer here.

Cooking direction, however, I give away freely and oftentimes unsolicited. One of my favorite dishes in the whole wide world is mushroom fried rice. Making this dish with Chanterelles is like adding truffles and Roquefort to a cheese burger, and it will be sure to church up this late-night take-out staple too.

Though this recipe may be unconventional for fried rice, it’s inspired from the source. Years ago, while working in Shanghai, I lived in a tiny apartment above the constant clangs of cast-iron woks from vendors along the streets below. A stroll around the block was a kind of informal cooking school, where all the back-of-the-house secrets of Chinese cuisine were revealed.

I learned that an entire menu can draw on the same handful of core ingredients: soy sauce, rice wine, rice vinegar, vegetable oil, sesame oil, dried chili flakes, salt, sugar, ginger root, scallions, peppercorn, and fresh citrus. With those in the fridge and cupboard, just about any Chinese recipe is already on its way.

Using a wok is also essential for getting that authentic taste. Stir-fry requires heat be kept in the center of the pan, and a lot of it. In my experience, the best woks are usually the cheapest and are not the non-stick variety. They can be readily found in most Asian markets.

This recipe relies on high heat and quick moves. So crank up the range and get ready to stir-fry the best Chanterelles you can find with fragrant scallions, ginger and sherry. We’ll top it off with some crispy, sweet scallops and a spicy sprout garnish. Serve with steamed broccoli or sugarsnaps to round out the meal or make a mini-version for a decadent appetizer.

A note on the rice: For this recipe we replace white rice for black, which lends a deep, nutty taste and textural breakup to the dish. It is also quite sticky and does not require eggs to bind them when fried, making for a nice vegan alternative. One product I enjoy working with is a short-grained black rice and mahogany rice blend called Black Japonica from Lundberg Family Farms, a provider of certified organic and eco-friendly rice products found at numerous natural food markets.

Mahogany Fried Rice with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Pan Seared Sea Scallops  
(serves 4)

Ingredients

For rice

    * 1 cup short-grained black and mahogany rice or Black Japonica
    * 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
    * 8 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced on diagonal (about 1 cup)
    * 2 cups fresh Chanterelle mushrooms, sliced lengthwise
    * 1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely chopped
    * 1 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
    * 1 tablespoon soy sauce
    * 1 tablespoon sherry
    * 1 teaspoon sugar
    * 1 teaspoon kosher salt
    * 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

For scallops


    * 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
    * 8 large sea scallops (the more pink in color the better)
    * kosher salt
    * fresh and coarsely ground black pepper
    * alfalfa or radish sprouts (often labeled spicy sprouts) for garnish

Preparation

For rice

In medium saucepan over high heat, combine rice and 2 cups water. Cover and bring to boil, and then reduce heat to low and simmer until water is absorbed, about 45 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork, and then cool.

In wok over high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers, hot but not smoking. Add the scallions, ginger, and parsnips. Keep all your ingredients moving with stirs and shakes so they don’t burn. Once the parsnips become tender, add the mushrooms, salt, sugar and pepper. After a minute or so, deglaze the wok with sherry, let the liquid burn off and add in the rice. Mix in the soy sauce and just as the rice begins to stick to the pan, remove from heat.

For scallops

Heat oil in large nonstick or, preferably, a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, over medium-high heat. Generously sprinkle scallops with salt and pepper. Cook scallops until golden on bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn over and sauté until just cooked through, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels.

To serve, pack a soup cup with the fried rice and knock it back onto the center of the plate, giving you a neat dome of rice. Place two scallops each atop rice and garnish with sprouts. 

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