Holiday time is cheese time, so I’ve gone ahead and sampled some of our fine local cheeses. It was a rough job, but someone had to do it.

We’re fortunate to be able to choose from a lovely selection of raw milk cheeses, as well as quite a few varieties made from pasteurized milk. Pasteurization is the process of heating milk to a temperature hot enough to kill harmful bacteria. Unfortunately, it can also kill many of the beneficial bacteria in dairy products, and it changes the flavor, making it less complex. Some states, including Washington, allow producers to sell raw milk directly to the public, although they have to jump through quite a few hoops to do it legally. Raw milk cheese is legal in every state, provided it’s been aged for at least sixty days. Aging lessens the moisture content and lowers the pH, creating a less hospitable environment for bacteria.

Many of the bacteria that are killed by the pasteurization process thrive in conventional dairy products because the animals are fed foods that they can’t easily digest, foods meant to fatten them up quickly. E coli is a bacteria that appears naturally in the digestive tracts of humans and animals, one that was basically harmless until it mutated into a particularly lethal strain about thirty years ago. The grain and soy which is fed to cows in most factory farms creates an acidic environment in their stomachs, one where the dangerous e coli thrives. Grass fed cows have a much lower incidence of this nasty bug, because they’re fed a diet which keeps them healthier. Pasteurization is one way to get rid of e coli, but personally, I’m partial to an approach which doesn’t cause it to grow in the first place. You can get more information about the raw milk controversy at http://www.realmilk.com.

You can get raw milk cheese from grass fed animals directly from Estrella Creamery (http://estrellafamilycreamery.com) , which makes 18 different varieties. I’m a big fan of their Old Apple Tree Tomme, and their Vineyard Tomme is a wine soaked holiday treat. You can sample and find your own favorites at the University District Farmers’ Market on Saturdays, or at the Ballard Farmers’ Market on Sundays. Sea Breeze Farm (http://seabreezefarm.net) , at the same markets, makes and sells a raw milk parmesan style cheese. Unlike Estrella, which specializes in cheese, Sea Breeze also sells, meat, milk, pates, and stocks, among other things, and they’re always coming up with new products made from their own grass fed animals.

River Valley Ranch (http://rivervalleycheese.com), in Fall City, and the Ballard Farmers’ Market, among other places, pasteurizes the milk that they use for their fresh goat’s milk cheeses, which are soft and spreadable, but they use raw milk for their harder, aged cheeses. Samish Bay (http://samishbaycheese.com) makes organically certified pasteurized cheeses, including several flavored goudas, Mount Blanchard--a cheddar style cheese-- and fresh mozzarella. They’re at the U District and Ballard Markets as well. Mount Townshend Farm (http://www.mttownshencreamery.com) makes cheeses from local cows’ milk, including a delicate variety called “Trailhead”, which is great for slicing. They also make a couple of rich, delightful brie-style cheeses, their Cirrhus and their Seastack. You can find their products at the Ballard Market, and also at various grocery stores around town.

I’ve heard that dairy products from grass fed animals are lower in cholesterol than “conventional” dairy products. Time will tell. In the meantime, I’m thoroughly enjoying the local bounty.