Continuing along on our journey
through the land of weird foods you’ll find in the farmer’s market,
this week we’ll taste a green of many names: mizuna. Mizuna
also goes by the names of Japanese greens, Japanese mustard, and California
peppergrass. Botanically, it is classified as Brassica rapa.
B. rapa is commonly known as “field mustard” or “turnip mustard”
and includes cultivars such as tatsoi, napa cabbage, turnips, and rapini.
When my friend Katie showed
up at my door with a bouquet of freshly-sliced mizuna leaves and told
me what she’d brought me, I gave her a look of disbelief. When
I plucked a leaf and popped it in my mouth, however, I was pleasantly
surprised. The intricate, delicately shaped leaf had a flavor
to match.
Illustrations courtesy Chuck Groenink
The initial taste was slightly bitter, but it finished
with a peppery taste reminiscent of arugula. Katie told
me she thought it was delicious in salads, but after a bit of research,
I learned it’s common in all kinds of dishes, especially Japanese
cuisine.
It’s popular for a reason
– this tiny leaf packs a powerful nutritional punch. As a green,
it’s obviously fat-free and low in calories. However, it’s
high in vitamin C, folic acid, and antioxidants, which are purported
to prevent cancer. All of this nutritional value comes in a package
that’s easy to cultivate.
Mizuna is reknowned for growing well
in cold and hot weather. If you’d like to grow your own, just
get some seeds (or buy a package of mesclun mix – mizuna’s often
included as an ingredient). Seeds should germinate in about seven
days, and can be sown outdoors as late as May. Mizuna can be cut
back four or five times each season, and will tolerate sun, shade, heat,
or frost. Some gardeners suggest starting a different patch of
seeds each month, so that you’ll have a constant supply for the kitchen.
Once you’ve harvested this
easy-to-grow-green, the possibilities are pretty much endless.
It can be served in salads, of course: the Japanese like to serve
it with shaved daikon radish. You can substitute it in dishes
calling for arugula or mustard greens, or add it to any dish that’s
lacking in vegetables or a bit of flavor.
Heated, it goes well
in Japanese soups or noodle dishes, and I think it would do well as
a stand-in for spinach (I’m personally not a fan of the texture of
it when it’s cooked). The dish I made with my mizuna takes advantage
of the green’s unique flavor, while blending it with a few other complimentary
tastes. If you’d like to make a vegetarian version, simply leave
out the bacon.
Pasta with Mizuna and Walnuts
1 pound of your choice of cooked
pasta (I used spaghetti)
3 slices thick-sliced bacon,
diced
1 bunch mizuna, roughly chopped
(about 3 cups)
1 tomato, chopped
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 onion, diced
3 tbsp mustard
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp lemon juice
3 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook the bacon in a pan, and
drain. Remember not to drain the fat down the sink, as
this can clog pipes. Dice the bacon, and set on paper towels to
drain. Heat olive oil over medium in a large pan, and add onion,
garlic, and red wine vinegar. Cook for five or six minutes, or
until onions begin to caramelize (turn clear).
Add mustard, walnuts,
lemon juice, and tomato; cook until tomato begins to dissolve (about
four minutes). Add mizuna, and cook until it starts to wilt.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve vegetables over pasta, and
sprinkle with shaved Parmesan.