Honest Eats is our newest seasonal recipe blog by Eric Robertson of Souped Up Cafe in Seattle, Washington.
Heirloom winter squash are to autumn what Rainier cherries are to summer. They are an emblem of October and we’re lucky here in Seattle to have access to so many varieties. Getting a hold of some locally grown pumpkins and cooking them up to highlight their natural, earthy sweetness will really bring a seasonal flair to your kitchen everyone can appreciate, not to mention a chance to show off your culinary prowess.
These fruits are endless inspiration for a creative cook and the list
of winter squash types as well as uses for them can go on for days. I
have been purchasing heirloom winter squash from Kings Garden organic
farm out of Tonasket, Washington for the past three years and I’m still
learning about the many varieties of squash they grow. Much of which
will pop up at neighborhood farmers markets, especially Saturdays on
University Way as it runs year-round. Winter squash have a shelf life
up to six months if stored in a cool, dark place so don’t be afraid to
stock up if you find good deals.
This season I focused my attention on namely two varieties, which I
regard to be some of the finest, most versatile pumpkins. Originally
from southern France, the Musque de Provence is a pale fairytale
pumpkin and boasts a clean texture and rich flavor with only a few
seeds to discard. Alternatively, the Blue Hubbard squash looks like a
ghostly, haunted pumpkin, with grayish blue skin and an awkward quail
shape. But appearances can be deceiving because inside are the deep
orange ingredients for the best squash soup of your life.
I have found that pumpkins love curry, or the other way around. Either
way it’s a match! Here are two recipes that incorporate hints of curry
and bring some intense squash flavor to the forefront.
Curried Pumpkin Fettuccini with Heirloom Tomato Chutney
Here’s a sophisticated pasta dish that pairs well with fall, though
beware it’s not fast food so grab a glass of wine and prepare for an
hour in the kitchen at least.
Ingredients
For sauce
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1 tablespoon vegetable oil
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½ medium sized Blue Hubbard squash, skin discarded and cubed into 1” pieces (seeds placed into a separate bowl)
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2 cups water
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1 tablespoon unsalted butter
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½ red onion, diced
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½ granny smith apple, diced
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1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste
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Pinch ground ginger
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1½ teaspoon chili flakes
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2 tablespoons chopped cilantro stems
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¼ teaspoon fish sauce
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4 cups vegetable/chicken stock
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Dash lemon juice
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½ cup heavy whipping cream
For pasta
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1½ cups Bob’s Red Mill Semolina flour
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½ teaspoon salt, optional
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3 eggs, beaten
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2 tablespoons water
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2 tablespoon olive oil
For chutney
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1 teaspoon vegetable oil
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½ red onion, diced
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2 medium heirloom tomato thickly diced
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¼ cup raisins
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Pinch dried chili powder
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2 tablespoons brown sugar
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Pinch ground ginger
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Pinch kosher salt
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½ teaspoon lemon juice
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1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Preparation
Make your dough by combining all pasta ingredients into a large bowl
and mix thoroughly. Wet your hands a little and roll the ingredients on
a hard surface until a seamless ball is formed, then wrap and place in
the refrigerator for at least an hour.
In a heavy stock pot with a steaming insert or small metal colander in
the bottom, bring two cups of water to a boil. Add in cubed pumpkin and
cover. Remove pumpkin and empty pot of water. Add in butter and oil and
bring to a white foamy state. Add onion, apple, and seeds and sauté
until tender. Spoon in curry paste, ground ginger, chili flakes and
cilantro stems, then deglaze with two cups stock and fish sauce. Bring
the mixture to a boil and pour in remaining stock, cream, and lemon
juice. Puree with an immersion or bar top blender.
If you stop now, or save half of this batch, it make for a delicious
soup. Otherwise, leave on medium high heat to reduce while stirring
occasionally.
Meanwhile, remove your dough and place it well floured on a hard
surface. With a rolling pin or a wine bottle, begin to press the dough
from the center out, constantly rotating and flipping so as to maintain
a round, even circle. Once the dough is as thin as you can possibly get
it while still able to flip it, roll the whole circle tight like a
cigar and finely slice it into quarter inch pieces. Unravel each piece
and leave it to hang on the lip of a jar or bowl. Bravo!
For the chutney, heat the oil in a small stock or soup pot over medium
high heat and sauté the onion. Once slightly tender, add in tomato,
raisins and spices. Let the mixture slightly boil, then add in vinegar
and lemon juice, then set heat to medium low and allow to reduce for
15-20 minutes until thick.
Boil up the pasta in salted water (you will know when fresh pasta is
done when it simply floats up top). Strain the pasta and shock it with
a little cold water, then toss it with your sauce. Garnish heavily with
the chutney, shaved parmesan and fresh cilantro.